Walk straight to the Old Town gates and lose yourself in the narrow stone alleys before hitting the Saturday morning market at Place de l'Hôtel de Ville. It’s less polished than Aix-en-Provence, which makes the cheap local honey and lavender sachets feel authentic. Hike up to Mont d’Or for the ruins and a panoramic view of the Durance Valley. Skip the overpriced cafes near the entrance; find a backstreet boulangerie instead. Two hours is plenty.
