Step into the bizarre, high-ceilinged mansion where Albania's most famous novelist grew up. It feels like an architectural labyrinth with secret rooms and haunting artifacts from the communist era. Spend an hour here; the floor-to-ceiling political history is heavy, but the house itself is a strange, well-preserved time capsule of 20th-century Gjirokastër. Skip the guided tour if you want to pace yourself, but don't miss the stark, minimalist library upstairs. It’s bleak, fascinating, and completely unpolished.
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