Skip the main harbor front if you hate crowds; the real vibe hides in the backstreets around Rue de la Ville. Spend two hours scouting the galleries and grabbing a crepe near the Vieux Bassin. The narrow, slate-covered houses look cool in photos, but get there by 9am or the cruise ship masses ruin the aesthetic. Definitely order a glass of local cider and skip the overpriced tourist cafes right on the water’s edge.
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