Skip the crowded Prague castles and take the Posazavsky Pacifik train for a gritty, scenic arrival. You get a raw look at 15 generations of the Sternberg family’s actual stuff—think heavy copper engravings and massive chandeliers. The 45-minute guided tour is the only way in, but the view of the Sazava river from the bastions is free. Skip the gift shop and head down to the riverbank for a beer instead.
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