Skip the museum placards and head straight to the artillery slits for the real vibe. This place feels like a battlefield bunker frozen in time. You only need 45 minutes to scale the steep stairs and explore the damp, eerie tunnels. Go right at opening or sunset to avoid the tour buses clogging the narrow parking lot. Bring a solid flashlight and skip the overpriced audio tour; just climb the ramparts and look out.
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