Skip the main floor tour and pay for the elevator to the top of the cathedral spires. You get a gritty, close-up look at the brickwork and a decent view over the city's rigid grid system. It takes about an hour, including the eerie descent into the basement crypts. The stained glass is solid, but the real pull is the architecture nerd vibe. If you only visit one thing, make it the tower ascent.
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