Skip the Amalfi main beaches and head here for a rugged, honest swim. The water stays deep and cold, so bring goggles for the rocky seafloor. Spend three hours lounging on the pebbled shore before grabbing grilled catch-of-the-day at Trattoria Armandino right on the water. It gets packed with locals by noon, so stake your claim on a lounger early. Wear water shoes or regret every step across those burning stones.
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