Skip the overpriced sit-down spots and grab a dozen fresh oysters directly from the harbor shacks. Wear sturdy sneakers because the beach is pure, jagged pebble; sandals will destroy your feet. Spend an hour browsing indie records on Harbour Street, then squeeze through the tiny Squeeze Gut Alley. Catch the sunset at The Old Neptune pub with a pint right on the shingle. Visit on a weekday to actually find a place to sit.
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