Day-trippers kill the vibe here, so stay overnight to see the lagoon go neon with bioluminescent plankton at midnight. Paddle through mangrove tunnels before the midday humidity spikes. Snorkeling the sunken plane wreck off Playa Libre is the actual move, but skip the overpriced resort buffets entirely. Hunt down the small, family-run food stalls for fresh fried fish that hits better than anything at a hotel. Pack plenty of bug spray, you will need it.
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