Walk the massive sandstone ramparts for views over the border, then head straight to the dungeons to see the prisoner carvings—tiny, detailed etchings left by 18th-century rebels. It takes about two hours to cover the whole site. Skip the overpriced gift shop and spend your time in the keep's armory instead. Grab a coffee in the courtyard if it's sunny. It feels more like a fortress than a palace, so wear sturdy boots.
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