Hit the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas before 9am or face total gridlock. Forget the overpriced guided tour bundles; negotiate your own rate per hour directly with the boatmen in pesos instead. Bring a cooler loaded with local beer and buy street elote from vendors as they drift past your trajinera. Spend three hours max on the water, then get out. Skip the onboard food—it’s greasy and slow. Just keep it simple and move fast.
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