Skip the main squares for lunch and dive into the narrow, winding alleys behind the Rimondi Fountain. You get the best photos of blooming bougainvillea here, away from the cruise ship crowds. Dedicate three hours to wandering the maze of Venetian architecture and Ottoman-era wooden balconies. Grab a freddo espresso at a local cafe and just people-watch. The Fortezza is okay, but the real vibe sits in the random, quiet residential side streets.
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