Skip the crowded ski base and head straight to Val Ferret for the real mountain energy. Rent a bike or hike the Tour du Mont Blanc segments for those jagged peaks you see on Instagram. Eat lunch at Rifugio Bonatti—the polenta is worth the sweat. Go during the week to avoid the Courmayeur weekend day-trippers. Bring a light windbreaker even in July, because the breeze off the glaciers hits different.
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