Skip the crowded tour buses and rent an electric scooter in Longkan to ride the perimeter at your own pace. The water hits different at sunrise, especially when the reflection of the Cangshan mountains clears up. Don't waste time on pricey group cruises; the real vibe is grabbing a coffee and sitting by the shore. Spend a half-day cruising the northern road and hitting the small fishing villages. It is better than the postcards.
