Rent a beat-up bike for two dollars and grind out the 9km concrete path circling the island. Cruise past stilt houses and dense pomelo groves, but skip the guided tours—grab a chilled coconut from a local stall when the humidity peaks instead. Budget two hours for the full loop, then hit the western beach by 5pm to catch Irrawaddy dolphins surfacing. Bring small change for the ferry and ignore the persistent touts.
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