Skip the main plaza's pushy vendors and head straight to the Santa Catalina Arch at sunrise for the clear volcano shot. Spend three days here—one for the Acatenango hike (bring actual winter gear) and another just for cafe-hopping on 5a Avenida. The ruins of Convento de las Capuchinas are worth the entry fee for the circular cells and quiet courtyards. Grab a pupusa at the local market, then hit La Sala for late-night mezcal.
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