Ignore the generic main plaza cafes and head straight for the carved stone portal at this 17th-century church. The bizarre, Aztec-inspired motifs look completely out of place on a desert island, which is exactly why they matter. Spend 45 minutes soaking up the architecture, then duck into a nearby side-street bakery for a fresh goat cheese pastry. Don’t bother with the overpriced tourist spots; find the locals' bake shop instead.
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