Skip the main tourist bus loop for Lemuy. You need a car to navigate the gravel roads between the three UNESCO wooden churches; Ichuac is the best photo op. Grab empanadas at a local roadside shackâdon't bother with the overpriced hotel restaurants. The 10-minute ferry ride from Chonchi is the highlight, so keep your camera ready for sea lions. Budget four hours total. Go on a weekday to actually see the landscape without the crowds.
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