Don't wander these ruins solo or you'll just stare at piles of rocks. Drop cash on a small-group tour including Palatine Hill; it turns boring rubble into actual history. Wear broken-in sneakers, because the uneven basalt cobbles will destroy thin sandals in minutes. Get here by 8:30 AM to dodge the cruise ship crowds and lethal midday sun. Hike up to the Farnese Gardens for the best angle; your feed will thank you.
Get lost in the vibrant, narrow alleys of the UNESCO-listed city center. · Learn the secrets of the perfect Neapolitan pie from a local pizzaiolo.
