Start hiking by 7am or the Kakadu heat will wreck you. The Anbangbang gallery puts you inches from the Lightning Man mural, which is the main event. Push through the steep final stretch to Gunwarddehwardde Lookout for the only panoramic angle that matters. Budget two hours of pure sweat and pack three liters of water—the sandstone glare is relentless. Skip this if it's pouring rain, as the slippery paths turn into a genuine safety hazard.
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