Head straight to Plac Nowy for a legendary zapiekanka before wandering the mural-filled backstreets. It’s less polished than the Old Town, which is exactly why it’s better. You’ll find indie boutiques and dive bars that stay open until dawn. A guided walking tour is worth the 32 bucks to actually understand the weight of the Remuh Cemetery and synagogues. Skip the generic souvenir shops; stick to the flea markets and late-night hummus spots.
