Book a ryokan stay to earn the heavy brass key unlocking all nine communal bathhouses hidden around this village. Wandering the hilly, lantern-lit streets in your yukata after dark hits different than any tourist trap. Grab a fresh steamed manju from the shop near the station before heading to the baths. Spend at least one night here to feel the vibe. It is quiet, moody, and worth the train trek from Nagano station.
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