Ditch the $250 private tours and drive yourself from Aberdeen in 30 minutes. Head straight to the top floor for the 16th-century painted ceilings—it is the only interior spot worth the trek. Spend two hours in the eight-acre walled garden where ancient yew hedges create a legitimate maze. Grab a flat white at the cafe, but skip the guided groups. The history is intense, but the outdoor greenery is the real main character here.
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