Forget the city center and wander this grid of low-slung, 19th-century fishing cottages. Residents fill their tiny gardens with rusted anchors, driftwood, and bizarre maritime knick-knacks that feel curated for a film set. Spend 45 minutes looping the quiet squares, but keep your voice down since people actually live here. Aim for a weekday morning to dodge the tourists. Grab a flat white from the nearby beach kiosk after you finish the loop.
