Skip the main tour if you have a short attention span; the 90-minute history lesson gets repetitive fast. Focus on the jagged Citadel views instead—it looks exactly like the set of the original Nosferatu movie. Hike the steep path in sturdy shoes, and bring your own water since cafe prices are steep. Early morning beats the tour buses that clog the entrance. You are here for the medieval grit, not the gift shop magnets.
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