Ditch the depressing cages; this place lets you watch devils crunch bones just feet away. Hit the 10am keeper talk, as these nocturnal gremlins rarely move otherwise. Spend two hours roaming the bush trails and hand-feeding wallabies. The Port Arthur Active Tour from Hobart is your best move if you lack a car. Skip the cafe’s dry sandwiches, pack your own lunch, and enjoy the wild. It is genuinely better than any glass-box zoo experience.
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