Skip the stuffy interior tour unless you really love antique furniture and formal corridors. The real move is renting a bike for the loop around Muckross Lake. It gets you to the Torc Waterfall without the parking headache. Spend three hours roaming the gardens and the Traditional Farms, especially if you want to see the old-school Irish cottages. Go on a weekday morning to dodge the tour bus crowds. Bring a rain shell, always.
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