Skip the overpriced resorts and head straight for the public beach stretch near the church. The water stays waist-deep for miles, making it a giant natural pool. It gets loud and crowded with locals on Sundays, so go Tuesday for peace or Saturday for the chaos. Grab fried fish and yaniqueques from the stalls—avoid the guys offering 'free' chairs unless you want a surprise bill. Two hours is plenty before the vendors get pushy.
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