Show up an hour before sunset when the purple heather glows and the day-tripper crowds vanish. Entry costs zero, but wear serious waterproof boots or the boggy Orkney mud will ruin your sneakers. Loop the perimeter between the two lochs in 45 minutes for the best angles. Unless you hire a local Neolithic guide, these are just big rocks in a field. Bring a heavy windproof jacket and expect horizontal rain regardless of the forecast.
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