Skip the expensive observation decks and hop on a night cruise instead. It is the only way to see the colonial Bund and futuristic Lujiazui lit up simultaneously without the sidewalk crowds. The $155 Xinjiang-style dinner cruise is the move if you want to avoid the basic buffet chaos. Give it two hours. If you are on a budget, take the 2-yuan local commuter ferry for a three-minute crossing—it is the ultimate cheap thrill.
