Skip the main square crowds and tackle the Scholarly Stairs to reach this 14th-century gem. The interior frescoes look rough around the edges, but that’s the point—it’s raw, authentic history, not a shiny renovation. Spend 45 minutes walking through the adjacent graveyard for peak moody atmosphere. Go during golden hour for the best light hitting the stone towers. Wear decent sneakers; the climb is no joke and the cobblestones don't play.
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