Forget the main squares; climb the stairs leading up from Námestie svätej Trojice for actual views of the red-roofed chaos. Wander the secret tunnels near the Glanzenberg mine entry if you want to skip the kitschy souvenir shops. You only need one afternoon here, but wear decent shoes—the cobblestones are brutal. Hit the local cafes for cheap coffee before the steep walk back to the bus stop. It is moody, vertical, and totally worth the hike.
