Scour the red sandstone arches for the carved pig playing bagpipes; it sits way higher up than you expect. This roofless ruin hits different on a windy day, so pack a heavy jacket for the biting Borders chill. Spend 45 minutes finding the plaque marking where Robert the Bruce’s heart is buried. Skip expensive private tours; booking a small-group day trip from Edinburgh is the smartest way to arrive without a car.
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