Skip the crowded Swiss resorts and head to the Upper Engadine for legit mountain access. The Bernina Express route cuts right through these jagged peaks, offering the best views you will ever get from a train seat. Spend your afternoon at Lake Sils; the windsurfing scene there is elite. Go between June and September to actually hike the high trails without snow gear. It is pricey, but the raw mountain air beats any tourist trap.
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