Skip the crowded beach clubs and spend an hour here wandering the graveyard. The 13th-century brickwork feels heavy and legit, especially if you actually read the epitaphs of local seafaring families. The interior is sparse, brutal, and way more grounding than the tourist traps nearby. Come around 4pm when the shadows stretch across the grass. Don’t touch the old organ and keep your voice down; it’s still an active space for people who actually live here.
