Walk the length of Corso Umberto for the vibe, but duck into the steep side alleys to find the real food. Skip the overpriced cafes on Piazza IX Aprile; take your photos of the Mount Etna backdrop then head to Bam Bar for almond granita. You only need half a day here unless you're hitting the Greek Theatre. Sunset is peak for lighting, but expect crowds. Grab a cone of fried seafood and just wander.
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