Skip the crowded public baths and head here for the silica-rich, milky blue water. The pools are tiered, so you can control the temperature depending on how hot you want to go. Aim for a weekday evening to avoid families and get a private corner near the ferns. It takes about 90 minutes to soak through the series. Don't bother with the overpriced gift shop; just focus on the steam and the quiet.
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