Ditch the map and wander between Place Plumereau and the Saint-Gatien Cathedral. You are here for the medieval architecture and the high-energy terraces where locals actually hang. Skip the pricey tourist menus on the main strip and grab a $15 audio tour to find the back-alley bakeries instead. Spend two hours exploring the crooked timber-framed houses before hitting the bars. It gets rowdy after 9pm, so go early if you want clean photos.

