Escape the main basilica gridlock by ducking into these low-lit halls. You get up close to raw, 12th-century crucifixes and artifacts that feel human rather than performative. The tiny, preserved infirmary room where St. Francis actually died carries a weight the giant cathedrals lack. Spend 45 minutes here in the late afternoon. It is five euros well spent to touch genuine history without fighting crowds of tour groups for a single clear photo.
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