Grab a white-tablecloth seat at Los Portales for a coffee, but stay for the noise. This isn't a quiet park; it’s a non-stop mix of marimba bands and locals dancing Danzón in the heat. Visit after 7pm when the temperature drops and the energy peaks. Skip the overpriced tourist menus and just pay the musicians for a song. You only need an hour to soak up the chaos before hitting the Malecón.
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