Skip the massive cruise ships and book a seat on the small wooden pea-pod boats instead. Navigating the narrow karst canyons with the boat trackers pulling you upstream feels raw and authentic, not like a tourist trap. Spend about three hours here; bring dry bags for your phone and gear because splashing is inevitable. Go early in the morning to beat the humidity and get the best light on the limestone cliffs. Don't skip the local boat songs.
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