Skip the crowded Ypres sites and head here for the most haunting art in Flanders. Käthe Kollwitz’s Grieving Parents statues define the atmosphere; you won't find flashy displays, just thousands of graves tucked under oak trees. Spend 45 minutes walking the quiet paths. It hits hard, so bring a heavy coat if you visit in winter. Go during golden hour when the shadows lengthen across the flat Belgian fields. It’s devastating, but necessary viewing.
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