Ditch the sterile resort fantasy for volcanic sand and chaotic town energy. Book a dawn surf lesson with a pro team while the waves stay glassy; otherwise, you just fight a brutal midday current. Skip the overpriced tourist traps and join the walking street art tour to see the town’s real grit. Stay 48 hours max—long enough to catch a solid swell and find a local soda serving legit gallo pinto for under ten bucks.
