Skip the main road if you want the real pay-off; hike the 20-minute trail to Haamaremare for the twin waterfalls. Pack heavy-duty DEET unless you want to get eaten alive by jungle mosquitoes. Wear actual hiking shoes, not sandals, or the knee-deep mud will claim them. Get here by 9am to dodge cruise ship crowds. If you hate rental cars, book a private east coast tour to handle the navigating for you.
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