Skip the sanitised tourist trail and go straight to the chaos. Dodge monkeys at Swayambhunath for the best city view, then get lost in the neon maze of Thamel to find the best momos of your life. Kathmandu Durbar Square is the spot for heavy history and carved wood architecture that actually feels real. It is loud, dusty, and brilliant. Wear comfortable shoes and leave your ego at the airport.
