Ditch the expensive cafes for a clay pot of Juju Dhau yogurt from a street vendor. Spend at least two hours in Pottery Square watching masters shape clay by hand—it's worth the wait. Scale the five-story Nyatapola Temple early to beat the heat and catch legitimate valley views. Stay until dusk after the day-trippers from Kathmandu leave; the atmosphere shifts completely. Book a sunrise private tour if you really want to dodge the midday tour bus chaos.
