Skip the main interior unless you practice Hinduism; the intensity happens across the Bagmati River. Secure a spot near the burning ghats by 6pm for the raw, high-energy Sandhya Aarti. Give yourself two hours, but keep your bag zipped tight—the local monkeys are professional pickpockets. If you need historical context, book a private UNESCO tour for under $20 instead of guessing. It gets crowded fast, so arrive early to actually see the ceremonies.
