Board the 8am ferry from Punta Arenas to see Commerson’s dolphins trailing the boat. Skip the weak cafeteria coffee and bring your own thermos; you will need the warmth on the open deck. Stay outside to actually see the glacial shoreline, as the indoor cabin feels like a sterile waiting room. Forget cell service for the entire crossing, so preload your Spotify offline. It is raw, freezing, and entirely worth the wind-whipped face.
