Hit the North Gate wall by 7am for moody shots before the tour bus crowds ruin your grid. Skip the cheap plastic souvenirs on South Street and hunt for legit history at the Rishengchang exchange vaults instead. Dedicate at least five hours to wandering the quiet residential alleys rather than just the main drag. Bring sturdy sneakers for the brutal, uneven cobblestones. Book a private walking tour if you actually want to understand the architecture.
