Don't bother with the massive ferry crowds; book a small-group tour for 12 people to reach the quietest turquoise coves. You'll spend about 6-8 hours weaving through 89 barren islands that look like another planet. Skip the basic lunch spots and swim off the boat near the high 'crown' cliffs. Bring high-SPF sunscreen—there is zero shade on these rocks. Most boats leave from Zadar or Murter, so factor in a full day.
